Rants

Instead of writing a review this week, Adam Platt files a rant about noisy restaurants: "August chefs like Wylie Dufresne (at Alder) and Jean-Georges Vongerichten (at ABC Cocina) have opened casual bar restaurants, designed for maximum sound, in the past couple of months, and the excellent little Pearl & Ash was so loud, even at 6:30 in the evening, that my guests and I cupped our ears with our hands to hear each other." For more on the subject, check out Robert Sietsema's post about noisy restaurants from last month. [GS/NYM]