As noted yesterday, Pete Wells likes the food coming out of Wylie Dufresne's kitchen at Alder: "You won't mistake the clam chowder in a red enamel camping mug for anything but clam chowder. Very little about the soup of smoked bacon, cream and shellfish would be out of place in Hyannis or Kennebunkport, although this version is more seductively smooth than usual. The oyster crackers, though, may cause some cognitive dissonance. After the first crunch, they dissolve, leaving nothing but a ghostly flicker of oyster flavor on your tongue." Two stars. [NYT]
Ryan Sutton is not a fan of Dan Kluger and Jean-Georges Vongerichten's ABC Cocina. He finds the "slider tacos" to be particularly offensive: "Chef Dan Kluger takes an underseasoned mound of Akaushi beef, places it into a corn tortilla and tops it with McDonald's-style special sauce. The result: A terrible taco and burger in one heavy, mushy disaster. Diners should expect more from Vongerichten, one of the original gangstas of fusion, merging high-end French and Asian sensibilities that won him three Michelin stars at his flagship off Columbus Circle." There are some redeeming dishes, though, and Sutton gives the restaurant one star overall. [Bloomberg]
TONY critic Daniel S. Meyer gives two stars out of five to Andrew Carmellini's Lafayette: "An eagerly awaited rotisserie chicken for two isn't nearly luscious enough to justify the absence of a deeply browned, crackly skin (Carmellini cooks a way better bird at Locande Verde). Steak frites lacks char and musky depth, and is drowned out by béarnaise butter. Duck au poivre packs the mineral punch that you wanted in the steak, but again, sadly, no crunchy skin." [TONY]
[La Mar Cebicheria by Krieger]
In an inspired move, Post critic Steve Cuozzo decides to revisit some restaurants that he reviewed over the last few years. He downgrades La Mar Cebicheria from two and a half stars to zero stars: "Today, La Mar Cebicheria's floor team is better staffed and trained. But shrill sauces seemingly made on the fly make it impossible to taste seafood. Once-sparkling quinoa salad lost the golden scallops that first adorned it; sludgy potato causa weighs down dish after dish. Arroz criollo with 'Peruvian' seafood combination evoked the greasiest Cantonese fried rice (which would cost half of La Mar's $22), and sangria tasted like Hawaiian Punch." Please take a minute to read his brief reassessments of BLT Steak, Millesime, Boulud Sud, Kutsher's, and ABC Kitchen. [NYP]
[Gotham Bar and Grill by Krieger]
THE ELSEWHERE: Gael Greene has an exciting meal at Sakamai, Ligaya Mishan finds hits and misses at Nightingale 9 in Carroll Gardens, and Daily News critic Michael Kaminer gives three stars out of five to Gotham Bar and Grill.
[Charlie Bird by Bess Adler]
THE BLOGS: Serious Eats editor Max Falkowitz digs the Georgian fare at Oda House in Alphabet City, the Immaculate Infatuation boys give an 8.8 rating to Charlie Bird in Soho, NYC Foodie thinks that Sushi Dojo offers great bang for your buck, Goodie First has an okay meal at Genting Palace at Aqueduct Racetrack, Eat Big Apple has a great time at Michael White's The Butterfly, Joe DiStefano tries the Fillipino street food from the Ray's Famous BBQ cart, The Pink Pig has a disappointing meal at John Brown Smokehouse, and NY Journal samples the cocktails and bar snacks at The Butterfly.
· All Coverage of Reviews [~ENY~]
[Top photo: Alder by Krieger]