As noted yesterday, Pete Wells likes the turbo-charged Italian American food and atmosphere at Carbone: "The two-and-a-half pound lobster fra diavolo is both brash and polished, the huge portion galvanized by Calabrian chiles and soothed by Cognac. No shrimp scampi has been handled as gently or luxuriously as Carbone's chorus line of langoustines, claws extended, bodies split and slick with butter that implies garlic without coming right out and saying it. Concentrated shellfish stock is the foundation a zuppa di pesce so deeply fragrant, you know it's coming before it's on the table." Some dishes don't work (namely the Chinese chicken), but in the end, Wells gives Carbone three sparklers. [NYT]
Jordana Rothman thinks the hits far outweigh the misses at Alder: "You can eat quite simply at Alder if you want to. A fried wedge of cauliflower is improbably rustic, with a lacy drape of lardo and candied cocoa nibs scattered over its burnished surface. And schmaltzy chicken liver, with bits of boiled egg, is heaped onto sweet corn bread, along with bitter grapefruit jam and curls of the poultry's crunchy skin. This stuff ought to be eaten at the bar, paired with one of the intriguing cocktails." The interim critic awards four stars out of five. [TONY]
Stan Sagner gives four stars (out of five) to Prospect in Fort Greene: "One lucky slice of raw hamachi bathes in a lush, lawn-green puddle of Spring Pea and Garlic Milk Soup ($12). Adorned with wild flowers, ramps and an ethereal foam of green garlic, this seeming grab-bag of seasonality makes perfect sense from the first sip. Succulent Kobe Beef Tongue ($15), which might give some diners pause, emerges tasting like the love child of pastrami and pork belly. Be not afraid." [NYDN]
[Lafayette by Krieger]
Gael Greene files a review of Lafayette for Manhattan magazine: "The lush duck mousse with cherries and walnuts piled on the house walnut bread stirs a rush too. I float back to earth, wantonly thinking about ordering a second. But the roasted beet salad, piled high with mache and frisee, punctuated with hazelnuts and enriched with fleur verte has arrived. And we share the scallops a la plancha my companion has suggested as a starter. These are perfectly cooked—caramelized and rare—decked out with spring peas, morels and pea sprouts." [Manhattan]
[Melibea by Daniel Krieger]
The ELSEWHERE: Amelia Lester of Tables for Two like the playful but satisfying Mediterranean fare at Melibea in the West Village, Ms. Gael also has a good time sampling Jesus Nunez's eclectic menu at Melibea, Scarlett Lindeman heads to the Bronx to try the carnitas at El Atoradera, and Ligaya Mishan likes many of the fancy seafood plates on the dinner menu at Maison Premiere in Williamsburg.
[Alder by Daniel Krieger]
THE BLOGS: Max Falkowitz of Serious Eats recommends going to Alchemy, Texas early in the evening before the meat dries out, the Immaculate Infatuation boys finds some recent improvements at Montmartre (but they still give it a 6.1), The Pink Pig is a big fan of Alder, Joe DiStefano discovers solid Korean sashimi at Pa Do Hwae Jip in Auburndale, NYC Foodie gives a big thumbs up to Sakamai on the Lower East Side, Amuse*Bouche has a sensational meal at Bunker in Ridgewood, Eat Big Apple has a steak dinner at Desmond's in Midtown, Blondie loves the chicken sandwich at Fritzl's Lunch Box, Goodies First visits Buca Di Beppo in Times Square, and NY Journal likes Lafayette but thinks there's room for improvement.
· All Coverage of Reviews [~ENY~]
[Top photo: Carbone by Krieger]