Eric Ripert tells Dana Cowin that he didn't necessarily want to be the executive chef at Le Bernardin when tragedy forced him to take the helm. "I was working as a chef under Gilbert Le Coze and he died of a heart attack. I was 26 at the time and I was happy doing what I was doing, but I had to take over. The New York Times critic Ruth Reichl was not so sure about me and she came in 12 times before we got our review." Of course, when that review finally did come out, it was a solid four stars, and the rest is history. [NRN]
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