Ligaya Mishan heads to Queens for this week's Hungry City column, to review Casa Enrique in Long Island City. The chef, Cosme Aguilar, is a Chiapas native who spent years cooking French food at Chez Henri. Now, Mishan says, he "brings polish to Mexican classics without tampering with their essence," and "approaches the food not as a scholar, but as a native speaker." The result is a place where "even the perennial rice and beans are noteworthy." [NYT]
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