Adam Platt awards three stars to Wylie Dufresne's Alder, and two stars to Richard Kuo's Pearl & Ash. On the former: "At wd-50, in recent years, you could sense the chefs laboring mightily to come up with their next molecular-gastronomic trick, but at Alder, most of the cooking has a refreshingly seamless quality to it." [GS/NYM]
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