Ryan Sutton likes the recent menu changes at Gabe Stulman and Tien Ho's Montmartre. On the entrees: "Pot-au-feu ($44, for two) becomes pot-au-pho, with cinnamon-clove aromas coming off the beef and intense marrow-spiked broth. It's loaded with oxtail richness and the clean spank of Thai basil that makes this hot soup okay for summer. Duck for two ($78) is code for duck tacos, thanks to buckwheat pancakes. Giant slabs of roasted breast meat give way to your knife with ease, while braised leg practically shreds itself after a good stare." Sutton gives the restaurant two stars, with a special shout-out to Tien's sweet and salty fries. [Bloomberg]
As noted yesterday, Pete Wells is not a fan of Graydon Carter's The Beatrice Inn: "Lamb porterhouse showered with roasted artichoke leaves was very satisfying once I ignored the grainy, salty sauce of dried black olives around it. So were crisp and fresh fried oysters with smoked char roe, as long as I didn't focus too much on a bitter and blandly sweet citrus purée." Goose egg. [NYT]
Joshua David Stein files on Lafayette this week: "Astute is exactly how I would describe most of the food. Inspired? Not really. But smart and perceptive, certainly. Raclette, a cheese too often confined to blanketing potatoes, ennobles a very good brisket burger at lunch. Muscat grapes, like capers, are used to great effect, as in a perfectly prepared dorade, where they cameo in an update of sauce veronique, or at lunch, where they top little grilled shrimpies and are studded with capers." [The Observer]
Gael Greene files on two relatively new Upper East Side establishments: 83 1/2 and Cocina Economica. On the former: "The service alternates between friendly, effusive and wrong table, but that's forgivable given a lemony caponata, the familiar eggplant stew with pine nuts and raisins to pile on toast, and fricco, parmesan crisps that we're dragging through a thin 'aioli' of Calabrian chili and honey. Only the watery housemade ricotta with pesto disappoints. My friend finds her Sicilian gimlet with homemade limoncello pleasantly refreshing. She gives me a sip. I agree." Ms. Gael not wowed by the Mexcian fare at Cocina Economica. [Insatiable]
[Lafayette by Krieger]
Adam Platt gives two stars to Lafayette: "The small-plate toast dishes popularized by Jean-Georges at ABC Kitchen are called tartines here, and you can get them piled with spoonfuls of opulent duck-liver mousse ($8) or Selles-sur-Cher goat cheese, decked with tomatoes and slivers of fresh radish. My classic beef tartare ($18) was a much better deal than the mealy Hawaiian prawns ($19 with sauce verte), but if you're in the mood for serious feed, begin your dinner with the lardon-rich salad frisée, which is served on a plate the size of a small hubcap." [GS/NYM]
[Nightingale 9 by Krieger]
Although she's not a fan of the decor, Ms. Jordana Rothman likes Robert Newton's take on Vietnamese fare at Nightingale 9: "The iconic Hanoi dish cha ca la vong—typically turmeric-blasted fish served with a pickler's pantry worth of dill—is served as a rice noodle bowl, with sprigs of the herb, crushed peanuts and fingers of fried catfish that might be equally at home at Seersucker, the American Southern restaurant Newton operates nearby. Peanuts and slippery vermicelli noodles also anchor the bun cha bowl, with patties of charred Berkshire pork and curls of belly meat, a chop of scallions and leaves of butter lettuce." Three stars out of five. [TONY]
[Sweet Chick by Krieger]
In his last review for the Village Voice, Robert Sietsema recommends the signature dish at Sweet Chick in Williamsburg: "The menu's bedrock is the venerable combo of chicken and waffles. This being the 'Burg, the fried chicken mimics the extensively brined product sold not far away at Pies 'n' Thighs, with a thickish crust and pillowy flesh. While my own preferences are for a dusting of flour and not brining the bird (making it chewier but more flavorful), I've got to admit Sweet Chick's product is perfect of its type." Sietsema finds some duds on the appetizer and entree list. [FitR]
[Carbone by Krieger]
THE ELSEWHERE: Nick Paumgarten of Tables for Two is overwhelmed by Carbone, Ligaya Mishan discovers excellent Vietnamese street food at Bunker in Ridgewood, and Stan Sagner thinks that Carmellini still has some work to do at Lafayette.
[River Styx by Krieger]
THE BLOGS: Max Falkowitz of Serious Eats likes Nightingale 9 but wishes it was cheaper, the Immaculate Infatuation boys award a very enthusiastic 8.9 rating to Lafayette, Eat Big Apple digs the spicy fare at Hunan House in Flushing, Goodies First tries several small plates at River Styx in Greenpoint, NYC Foodie has a very good meal at Pearl & Ash, and NY Journal thinks the food at The Greenwich Project is good but pricey.
· All Reviews on Eater [~ENY~]