Jordana Rothman is not completely won over by Richard Kuo's Pearl & Ash: "The chef has a way of sabotaging his proteins with too many flights of fancy: Sweet, raw ama-ebi shrimp teamed with radish slices and a scattering of floral bee pollen disappeared in an intensely tart smoked lime yogurt; octopus tentacles were dry rubbed with togarashi and panfried to near incineration, losing their delicate chew along the way." The interim critic gives the restaurant two stars out of a possible five. [TONY]
Steve Cuozzo likes the food at Stella 34, the new Italian restaurant inside Macy's: "Among pasta, perfectly square chitarra holds rich San Marzano tomato sauce. I wish it were easy to get simple-seeming linguini with white clam sauce as good as this elsewhere: It's amplified by flavors of garlic and anchovies and lightened just enough by lemon juice." The critic gives the restaurant two stars out of four. [NYP]
Although it's not quite perfect yet, Ms. Gael Greene digs the menu and the spirit of Lafayette: "The rabbit is remarkably moist too (as it often is not elsewhere) in a casserole with small potatoes, crushed tomatoes and bits of bright green olive. The grilled Berkshire pork chop could be moister and more flavorful but not the small square of confit'd pork belly alongside. That's more than just right. And the lentils laced with French curry are classic. My companion reluctantly sneaks one last bit of the confit." [Insatiable Critic]
Adam Platt is not thrilled by Carbone: "Carbone has been open for seven weeks, and at this early date, the uniformly gargantuan entrées (there are nineteen) are similarly hit-or-miss...A disastrous experiment called Chinese Chicken ($29) tastes like it's been slathered with a mix of Chinese mustard and crankcase oil, and the thin, watery Marsala sauce on my otherwise presentable veal chop was weirdly devoid of thickening flour or cream." He gives the restaurant just one star. [GS/NYM]
Tejal Rao loves the seasonal Japanese fare at the recently-relocated Kajitsu: "The kitchen knows how to coax a multitude of textures and flavors from the vegetable world, then compose a carefully structured meal of them. In short, save your vegan-phobic rant for someplace else—you won't miss animal products at Kajitsu, nor will you go hungry (in fact, it's pretty impressive how heavy things can get without meat or dairy in the picture)." [VV]
Michael Kaminer gives three stars (out of five) to The General: "The menu's divided into confusing sections. A 'Rolled' heading presents jewel-like maki rolls that dazzle with unexpected flavor combinations. Spicy tuna and jalapeno-tinged salt in a Mercy Roll ($15) get a cool, considered counterpoint in salsa verde dipping sauce. Refined black rice and mellow soy caramel play beautifully off the hamachi in the Stonewall Roll ($14). Portions, however, are comically minuscule. A maki roll here means five tiny pieces." [NYDN]
THE ELSEWHERE: Silvia Killingsworth of Tables for Two loves the eclectic menu at Prospect, Robert Sietsema recommends year-old Chinese restaurant Full House, Ligaya Mishan likes many of the Asian-American dishes served at Salt & Fat, and Restaurant Girl finds that Gwynnett St. is still on its game following the departure of chef Justin Hilbert.
THE BLOGS: J. Kenji López-Alt of Serious Eats is slightly disappointed by Montmartre, the boys from Immaculate Infatuation give Lavender Lake a 7.9 rating, NYC Foodie is wowed by Little Prince in Soho, Eat Big Apple has a decent meal (with no drinks) at Macao Trading Co., The Food Doc digs Alder despite a few weak dishes, Chekmark Eats has a great time at Osteria Morini, Blondie samples the banana pancakes at Selamat Pagi, Goodies First likes the unusual Mexican-influenced fare at Xixa, and NY Journal thinks that Parm is a great casual restaurant (but not worthy of its two stars from the Times).
· All Coverage of Reviews [~ENY~]
[Pearl & Ash by Krieger]