Pete Wells gives four stars to Carbone this week! Just kidding, he actually files on Saison, a big deal restaurant in San Francisco. On chef Joshua Skenes: "Some chefs are like matchmakers to their ingredients, always trying to set them up on dates. Mr. Skenes approaches his ingredients like a psychoanalyst: he makes them look inward, encouraging them to unlock their hidden potential before meeting anybody new." [NYT]
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