As noted earlier, Pete Wells is impressed by Hooni Kim's Korean fare at Hanjan on 26th Street: "On a menu of mostly small dishes, one of the two substantial enough to anchor a meal is a large bowl of cod roe in a cloudy seafood broth that contains so much chile paste, it's pink. Both the esoteric main ingredient and the fearless seasoning in this remarkable stew suggest that Mr. Kim trusts his audience, and vice versa." Two stars. [NYT]
Although the menu is not perfect, Steve Cuozzo likes the spirit of Richie Notar's Harlow: "If Notar's Harlem spot serves Harlow's pasty lamb meatballs, Red Rooster's Swedish ones a block away will laugh them off the avenue. But other party-time dishes fully live up to the festive mood. Subtle anchovy sauce dressed bagna cauda, a pretty little garden of flash-charred carrots, baby fennel, trevisano and cauliflower. Cylindrical strozzapreti pasta tossed with shrimp, diced king crab leg and sea urchin might not threaten seafood pasta at Marea, but who's comparing? It's rich and dandy." The critic gives the restaurant two stars. [NYP]
Robert Sietsema digs the quirky French fare at Three Letters in Clinton Hill: "In keeping with the seasonal sensibilities we've come to expect in a Brooklyn bistro, the roasted vegetables in the winter lamb navarin is what you might come up with if you dug around in your farm's root cellar at this time of year. More succulent is chicken St. James, which arrives littered with garlic cloves and broccoli as if the bird had flown into a roadside farm stand. But underneath is the real payoff: a mushy pavement of pommes alene, which just might be the best cheesy potatoes you've ever eaten." [FitR]
Jay Cheshes gives three stars (out of five) to Jeepney: "Filipino parents convince their kids to eat dinguan—pork shoulder slow-simmered in pig's blood—by telling them that chocolate is the secret ingredient. You won't need subterfuge to fall for Jeepney's rich version, tangy with vinegar and a splash of beer. The bulalo, a sort Philippine pot-au-feu, is just as restorative, its beautifully viscous bone broth poured over roasted marrow and falling-apart short ribs." [TONY]
On her Insatiable blog, Ms. Gael Greene files a full report on Carbone: "Some prices will seem scarily inflated: like $45 for hot or cold antipasto (dare I assume it will serve two?), $38 for an appetizer of scampi alla scampi, the $140 Mixed Grill Cacciatore for two. Our bill Friday night was $112 per person with tip. Not outrageous, considering the floorshow. And Carbone is fun. Half of what I tasted was very good. " [Insatiable]
Michael Kaminer gives just one star to Graydon Carter's Beatrice Inn: "Halibut ($29) looks almost Asian in its simplicity, plated over a giant comma of parsley-root puree. The filet's moist and tender, but the veg is salty pablum and mars the fish's delicate texture. Colorado Lamb ($45) brings four small choplets, rich and gamy. For the price, though, they should dance on the plate. They're perfectly cooked — medium, as ordered — but again overshadowed by salty braised artichokes and shallots." [NYDN]
The Robs award two U.G. stars to Café à la Carte in Soho and three U.G. stars to Mama Joy's in Bushwick. On the latter: "For starters, there is the crumbly crusted fried chicken—a resoundingly crunchy thigh and drumstick harboring some supremely juicy flesh beneath its matzo-meal armor. It comes with hot sauce and honey and mashed potatoes, plus some buttery fresh-off-the-cob corn that might make a disapproving locavore shed his seasonality shackles just this once." [GS/NYM]
THE ELSEWHERE: Restaurant Girl loves everything about Carbone, Ligaya Mishan samples the spicy fare at La Vie en Szechuan, Gael likes much of what she tries at Willow Road and Salvation Taco, Amelia Lester of Tables for Two has an uneven meal at The Pines, and Tejal Rao gives a big thumbs up to LES Spanish newcomer Cata.
THE BLOGS: The Immaculate Infatuation dudes think the food sucks at Montmartre, The Food Doc files a report on the O.G. Momofuku dinner at Brooklyn Star, Goodies First tries a stellar sandwich at Saltie in Williamsburg, The Pink Pig thinks that Junoon is one of the best Indian restaurants in the city, NYC Foodie absolutely loves Carbone, and NY Journal recommends the chicken and the suckling pig tacos at Oficina Latina.
· All Coverage of Reviews [~ENY~]
[Photo: Daniel Krieger]