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Adam Platt Awards One Star to Italian Hot Spot Carbone

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Jay Cheshes and Ryan Sutton both loved Carbone, but New York's Adam Platt is not totally won over by the new restaurant from Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi. Although he concedes that you can have "a decent one-star meal if you choose wisely," Platt is turned off by the "zany prices" and the gussied up Italian-American dishes that miss the mark. On the pastas:

Over-the-top largesse is one of the time-honored rituals of the old-school red-sauce dining experience, of course. But Carbone and Torrisi made their considerable (and deserved) reputation by improving on the tired conventions of Italian-American cooking, not by aping them. And as one pricey, oversauced pasta blends into another (only one item in the Macaroni section of the menu is under $23), many of these elevated retro ­preparations begin to taste distressingly like the kind of thing you'd be served on a Tuesday night at some venerable B-list pasta joint.
He recommends the veal parm and the mixed grill for two, even if it "costs as much as a ticket to a Broadway show." Overall, the Plattmaster gives the restaurant one star.
· Herculean Portions and a Fervid Fan Base Define Carbone [GS/NYM]
· All Coverage of Carbone [~ENY~]
[Daniel Krieger]


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