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Instead of a review this week, Post critic Steve Cuozzo offers a delightful list of 10 things that annoy him about modern New York restaurants. He's sick of half-hearted marrow dishes, the lack of salt shakers on tables, pricey cauliflower steaks, and bad cover versions of Doo-Wop songs on the stereo. Cuozzo also writes that the Fernet Branca ice cream sandwich at Pearl & Ash is "the most stomach-churning meal-ender in the history of gastronomy." [NYP]