In this week's review, Pete Wells writes about hot new barbecue restaurants BrisketTown, Fletcher's, and Mighty Quinn's. Although he has kind words for all three establishments, Mighty Quinn's is the most impressive in his eyes. A few standouts:
The beef rib is an instant conversation stopper, a long block of impressively tender meat clinging to a Jurassic curve of bone. It surely upstages the brisket in theatricality, and possibly in flavor as well, though it's a close call. The brisket is cooked patiently to render much of the fat from the top cap, moistening even the leaner lower muscle until it gleams. A simple rub of salt and pepper is subdued but effective. The meat is not as thoroughly suffused with smoke as the best products of Texas, but it has as much finesse as anything I have ever eaten from a cardboard box.The critic calls BrisketTown's Daniel Delaney the "most obsessed pitmaster in New York," but he's not completely blown away by the signature dish (he prefers the ribs). And Wells thinks that Fletcher's has strong sides, but he finds that some of the meat is dry. Mighty Quinn's is the only one of the three that gets a star rating: two big ones.
· Big League BBQ Arrives [NYT]
· All Coverage of Mighty Quinn's [~ENY~]