For this week's review, Pete Wells files on The Dining Room at The Modern, which is the fine-dining experience at Danny Meyer and Gabriel Kreuther's eight-year-old Midtown restaurant. It has held two stars since Frank Bruni reviewed it in 2005 (he gave the Bar Room three in 2007), but now Wells upgrades the restaurant to a three star rating. The critic likes the look of the food and the dining room:
The white walls and tablecloths, and the grid of steel and glass facing the museum's sculpture garden, suggest a contemporary gallery. This graceful, understated room stands back so the artistry can happen on the plate. Mr. Kreuther follows through. He is bold with color, painting salmon crimson with a marinade of beet juice, or drawing a dark green stripe of powdered Kaffir lime down the center of a monkfish fillet resting in a gorgeous sauce of blood orange and mustard.Wells notes that the bar room still has more energy, but he finds that the Dining Room "is full of unexpected delights."
He is intrepid with flavor as well. Roasted lobster tail seemed complete with a smoky pimento broth that I would have happily drunk from a teacup, but then a server brought something extra, a tiny portion of tender claw meat under a wheel of burned sugar that went beyond caramel by several degrees of bitterness. It was daring and wonderful.
· Art on the Walls and on the Plates [NYT]
· All Coverage of The Modern [~ENY~]