Robert Sietsema enjoys his meals at The Marrow, and he thinks the German/Italian menu concept works: "From Dad's side comes a magnificent duck schnitzel ($29), brown as a bun just out of the oven and richly textured, reminding us that duck meatballs were a signature of Dieterle's on Top Chef. It comes with a cucumber-potato salad, quark-cheese spaetzle toasted to crunchiness, and stewed wolfberries—German sounding, but really just the currently faddish Chinese gojis." [VV/FitR]
Ryan Sutton is disappointed by many of the dishes coming out of Hung Huynh's kitchen at The General, but there are a few bright spots on the menu: "The Vietnamese-born chef shows off some technical skills with Peking duck ($69). Super-musky slabs of meat emerge from skin that crackles the burnt sugar on crème brulee. Too bad it tastes as if no salt was applied during the cooking or aging process; it's almost completely unseasoned. So stick with such fish as robata-grilled lobster tail ($21), packed with maritime flavor, or slow-cooked Chatham cod with a tart tamarind-tomato sauce." One and a half stars. [Bloomberg]
As noted yesterday, Pete Wells is not completely won over by The Marrow: "One night there was a special of garganelli puttanesca with bottarga and tuna marrow, a clear jelly found inside the fish's spine. 'We recommend stirring the marrow into the pasta,' our server said. We complied, and still thought the sauce too meek and the bottarga too pushy. We couldn't taste the marrow that had been incorporated into the pasta and didn't want to deal with the mucilaginous blobs that had not." One star. [NYT]
Stan Sagner gives three stars (out of five) to chef Christos Christou's Yefsi Estiatorio: "Housemade Louganiko ($12), a lightly charred pork sausage, offers hints of orange and fennel seed and nestles on a bed of tender black-eyed peas. An occasional special, Garides Me Loutzna ($14) is a fragrant shrimp stew spiked with chunks of smoky Cypriot ham...Yefsi Chips ($13) greaseless, paper-thin slivers of fried zucchini and eggplant resembling tempura, quickly turn additive once dunked in their garlicky tzatziki." [NYDN]
Adam Platt awards one star to The Marrow: "The entrées tend to be more prosaic than the appetizers, and if you're looking for an escape from the unrelenting procession of lumpen, protein-heavy grub, you're more or less out of luck. I enjoyed the chunky, salami-rich panzanella salad buried beneath my substantial helping of grilled chicken, but the chicken itself was overbrined and overcooked. I had been hearing nice things about Dieterle's duck schnitzel, but our order was strangely devoid of flavor ('I don't know what I'm eating,' said Ms. Platt), and the crust had a cafeteria-style thickness to it." [NYM/GS]
THE ELSEWHERE: Ligaya Mishan loves the rich French fare at Le Philosophe, Tejal Rao tries many crummy dishes at Tribeca Canvas, Ariel Levy of Tables for Two likes the food and loves the view at Gaonnuri, Joshua David Stein files on Arlington Club for the Observer, and Gael Greene revisits Babbo after ten years.
THE BLOGS: Ed Levine likes many of the dishes at Michael Lomonaco's Center Bar, the Immaculate Infatuation boys give an 8.8 rating to Paulie Gee's, The Pink Pig digs the farm to table fare at Parish Hall in Williamsburg, Eat Big Apple is slightly underwhelmed by Louro, Chekmark Eats is a big fan of The Butcher's Daughter, NYC Foodie checks out the sandwiches at Animals on Avenue C, The Food Doc offers a dish-by-dish recap of the "East Meets West" dinner at Thistle Hill Tavern, and NY Journal thinks that Aldea serves one of the city's top tasting menus under $100.
· All Coverage of Reviews [~ENY~]
[The Marrow by Krieger]