Pete Wells is the last of the big critics to file on Harold Dieterle's wildly popular new West Village restaurant, The Marrow. He finds that the menu is a mix of inspired dishes, and unusual creations that don't quite work:
One minute, the Marrow would send out something as concise and well considered as an appetizer of shredded duck leg pressed into a brick under a crackling sheet of skin, with a top layer of huckleberries providing all the counterpoint that the duck needed.Wells digs the cured and smoked meats, the desserts from Ginger Fisher, the marrow, the schnitzel, and the wine list. The critic concludes: "Not every dish is so unfocused, but enough are that the Marrow, which should be Mr. Dieterle's most personal restaurant, feels like his most abstract." One star.
The next, out would come skillfully cooked salmon covered by a sprawling haystack of cabbage and carrot slaw. The vegetables, underseasoned and underdressed, seemed to need something. Could it be ... nuggets of pastrami?
No, but that's what they got. Like a flustered person who isn't sure what to say, the dish rambled on without coming to the point. Order unwisely and the table can be overcome by this kind of nervous chatter.
· The Family Tree Spans a Border [NYT]
· All Coverage of The Marrow [~ENY~]