New York critic Adam Platt likes many of the dishes at Harold Dieterle's hot new restaurant The Marrow, but he gives the restaurant just one star out of five. The critic writes good things about the braciole, the wagyu culotte steak, the arctic char, and the cotechino, but in his eyes, Dieterle's half Italian/half German menu "hasn't quite jelled yet." Take it away Platty:
Dieterle's restaurants tend to improve with age, and that could be the case here too. But the stolid, canonical specialties of old Europe don't tend to lend themselves to fusion experiments the way the more nimble, vibrantly flavored cuisines of Asia do, and right now too many dishes at the Marrow seem to work better in theory than they do on the plate. The exceptions are the desserts, which the pastry chef, Ginger Fisher, infuses with a deft combination of Italian style and Germanic heft.Ultimately, Platt gives the restaurant half a star for the "neighborly setting," and another half star for the desserts. This is the lowest rating that this restaurant has received from one of the big critics. Earlier this month, Sutton and Cuozzo gave it three stars each, and Jay Cheshes gave it four stars (out of five).
· At the Marrow, Harold Dieterle Mines His Two Ancestral Cuisines [NYM/GS]
· All Coverage of The Marrow [~ENY~]