Ryan Sutton awards three stars to Harold Dieterle's The Marrow: "Dieterle has a thing for bone marrow. He lays it underneath a generous swath of Maine sea urchin. The marrow is hot, the uni cold and the textures, magically identical. The dish ($16) is perfect. No bland veal schnitzel here; crispy batter covers a thick slab of duck breast. Throw in stewed wolfberries and crispy spaetzle and there's your Michelin star. If there's a better fried red meat in town I don't know of it." [Bloomberg]
As noted yesterday, Pete Wells has mixed feelings about David Santos's Louro: "Mr. Santos is a seafood enthusiast, and his kitchen cooks it with care. Idaho trout with bacon, pecans and tiny brussels sprouts was pan-fried expertly. But at times, good fish was let down by bad partners, like the very flavorful piece of cobia that was becalmed in a watery curry-mussel emulsion. Chicken thigh confit and breast, too, were left to fend for themselves on a dull plate of oatmeal with a dribble of maple-sweetened jus. Dullness slipped into depression with a risotto of slightly undercooked lobster on gummy Himalayan red rice." The critic gives the restaurant one star. [NYT]
Robert Sietsema visits Sweet Yummy House in Elmhurst, Queens: "The restaurant favors organ meats more than almost any other Sichuan place in town. Here, you can have a splendid cold kidney salad ($6.50) laved with chile oil. (Don't worry, the filter organ has been cleaned of its pee taste.) Cheek-by-jowl with the kidney, the menu also lists tendon, tripe, stomach, and liver. Entirely unexpected on a Sichuan menu is a version of the famous Taiwanese standard three-cup chicken, in this case dubbed 'chicken with ginger, basil.'" [VV]
Steve Cuozzo digs Michael Lomonaco's Center Bar in the Time Warner Center: "My 'small' menu favorites include Sicilian arancini decadently rich with porcini mushrooms, pecorino and prosciutto, and crackling-spiced ahi tuna refreshingly parried by ice-cold Bloody Mary sorbet. Several larger choices are strapping entrees for just $15 to $21. Mayan prawns provide a Latinate departure with vividly composed salsita. Juicy, roasted halibut dusted with Berber-style Moroccan spices shares the plate with a vegetarian stew anchored by yellow lentils." The Cuozz files a "Free Range" piece on the restaurant, not an actual, starred- review. [NYP]
Michael Kaminer is not a fan of the new menu at Michael's: "Small plates, nearly all of them new additions, are flops. The Old Line State should sue over Maryland Lump Crabcakes ($16). Instead of the plump, pristine pucks I used to eat in Baltimore, where I spent my teen years, these are greasy, leaden golf balls of sodden shredded meat. Korean Steak Tacos ($16) look microwaved, with small brown chunks of 'Bulgogi hangar steak' on leathery tortillas under inert shredded radish. Pickled vegetables mentioned on the menu turn out to be stray threads of limp cucumber." The critic gives the restaurant one star out of five. [NYDN]
Jay Cheshes gives four stars (out of a possible five) to Harold Dieterle's The Marrow: "The chef's high-end comfort food sometimes seems to channel many places at once. His red-wine-braised lamb neck, falling off the bone like good osso buco, comes with excellent tart red cabbage kraut and rutabaga puree as silky smooth as a master French chef's. Braised boneless short ribs are as tender, meanwhile, as the best beef bourguignonne, piled onto creamy polenta, ground fresh in-house, and tender, garlic-soaked escarole with nutty green chickpeas adding a Sicilian—or maybe North African—touch." [TONY]
THE ELSEWHERE: Ligaya Mishan likes many of the dishes at Parish Hall in Williamsburg, Gael Greene visits The Bocuse Restaurant in Hyde Park, Tejal Rao has a good time at Hanjan, and Nick Paumgarten of Tables for Two enjoys some of the straightforward English pub grub that's served at Jones Wood Foundry.
THE BLOGS: Serious Eats finds a mixed bag at Runner & Stone, the Immaculate Infatuation guys give an 8.1 rating to Xixa in Williamsburg, NYC Foodie loves the bistro fare at Calliope in the East Village, Goodies First is disappointed by her meal at the Staten Island location of Bonefish Grill, Chekmark Eats recommends brunch at Pulino's, Eat Big Apple has a decadent meal at Petrossian, The Pink Pig is impressed by Corton, and NY Journal has a terrific Valentine's Day feast at The Four Seasons.