Adam Platt is charmed by Marco's, the new Prospect Heights restaurant from Francine Stephens and Andrew Feinberg in the space that formerly housed the original version of Franny's. The decor is spare and the lighting is dim, but Platt likes the rustic Italian fare from chef Danny Amend:
My helping of pork loin was spit-roasted to a crispy-edged pinkness and splashed with a tangy, well-balanced white-wine sauce, and if you want to know exactly how the Venetians like their calamari, order the squid, which is slow-cooked in white wine, fennel, and garlic and poured around a triangle of polenta. My brother couldn't stop yammering about the ethereal qualities of his wood-fired swordfish...but if you get just one dish from the wood oven, I suggest the even more ethereal lamb chops scottadito, which are served three to a plate, over a wedge of country toast.Plattypants also digs the wine list, which features 85 reds from Italy, and the hearty desserts. Overall, the critic gives the restaurant three stars — one for the appetizers, another for the entrees, and a third for the wine and desserts.
· Franny's Chefs Get Even More Rustico at Marco's [GS/NYM]
· All Coverage of Marco's [~ENY~]
[Photo: Daniel Krieger]