Week in Reviews

Pete Wells likes Danny Amend's cooking at Marco's in Prospect Heights: "There is a loose, Cal-Ital freedom to the way Mr. Amend spoons saffron-pickled fennel over oysters that have been rushed into and out of the wood oven. These oysters are hot and smoky, but still as fat and juicy as when they were raw. They come five to a plate. There were four of us. About two seconds later, I ordered more. Not only did I look like a genius to the other people at the table, but I got a second oyster." Wells gives the restaurant two stars. [NYT]