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Adam Platt Gives Chelsea Hot Spot Toro Two Stars

Daniel Krieger

New York critic Adam Platt gives two stars to Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonette's "battleship of a restaurant," the Boston import Toro. Despite the high volume and some weak cocktails, he finds quite a few dishes to like on the long tapas menu:

[T]he soft, beautifully charred $90 bone-in rib eye for two to four people (aged for 40 days and scattered with garlic and crisped shallots) is almost worth the price of admission. Ditto the classic Mediterranean seafood options in the voluminous "A la Plancha" section of the menu, which includes a set of perfectly al dente razor clams garnished with chopped piquillo peppers and lemon, an almost unnaturally soft version of Galician-style octopus (with potatoes and charred onions), and a faithful iteration of baby cuttlefish, doused in its own ink.
Less memorable are the various paellas, croquetas and jamóns, and Platt wonders "what kind of impact this polished cooking would have in a smaller, more intimate space." But given that the focus here is on turning a profit, he notes that Toro at least has more in its favor than some of the many other "behemoth money machines" nearby.
· Toro Breathes New Life into Old Dining Trend [GS/NYM]
· All Coverage of Toro [~ENY~]


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