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Pete Wells gives two stars to Chris Cipollone's Piora: "Mr. Cipollone, an Italian-American, loves to play with pasta, but he is not chained to the traditions of Italy. He simmers black garlic bucatini in crab stock and tosses it with crab meat, adding maitake mushrooms for earthy depth. He underlines the candy-like flavor of roasted red kuri squash inside tortellini with a butternut squash juice that's a little less sweet, a two-note melody in the key of squash." [NYT]