Although some of the dishes are too salty, and many of the desserts miss the mark, Adam Platt finds a lot to like at Piora, Chris Cipollone's new Italian and Korean-influenced restaurant in the West Village. Platt writes:
Cipollone has a tendency, now and then, to add two or three extra ingredients to his recipes when one will do, although if you choose wisely, it's possible to put together an unexpectedly good meal. Some of the tasters at my table thought the sweetly peppery barbecued-octopus appetizer skewed too far toward the heavy, overcharred Korean octopus model, despite the presence of candied pine nuts and a sprig of basil. No one had anything unkind to say about the scallops, however (with chanterelles and slips of crackly chicken skin), or the house pastas, all of which are constructed in a similarly rich, multitextured way.Overall, he gives Piora two stars. This week, Platt also files on Skál, a new Icelandic restaurant on Canal Street. He thinks that a lot of the food here has a "messy, tossed-together quality," but the critic gives the restaurant one star. The official takeaway: "Half a star each for the merry vibe and the neighborly, neo-Icelandic cuisine."
· Platt: Don't Call Piora Fusion [GS/NYM]
· All Coverage of Piora [~ENY~]