This week, Pete Wells files on Le Restaurant, the Michelin-starred $100 tasting menu beneath the All Good Things market in Tribeca. Wells finds that chef Ryan Tate, formerly of Savoy, has a delicate hand with proteins, and a knack for creating original dishes. A favorite:
A dinner in April began with salmon mousse sandwiched between airy fennel-seed meringues. The flavors were gentle, but they got my attention, and the next course drew me in deeper. Here were gooseneck barnacles, long tubes ending in multifaceted beaks; they looked like the sawed-off legs of a Victorian piano. Swiped in melted butter and chopped spring garlic, the barnacles tasted a bit like the necks of steamer clams, but they were far more tender and much sweeter.Unfortunately, the greeting at the door can be cold and confusing, but Wells reports that the service at the table is great. The critic gives Le Restaurant two stars.
· Down the Steps, Finding Wonders Within [NYT]
· All Coverage of Le Restaurant [~ENY~]