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Ligaya Mishan reviews Umami Burger this week: "The meat, cooked medium-rare unless requested otherwise, is juicy, with a thrillingly dark crust; the bun's fluffiness seems to have been calibrated to the precise cubic micrometer to offset the richness of the meat. But in almost every burger here, the toppings prove more memorable, for better or for worse, than the burgers themselves." [NYT]
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