Week in Reviews

Pete Wells awards one star to John McDonald and Josh Capon's El Toro Blanco: "I refuse to choose a favorite among the three ceviches. I'd rather just appreciate the lean, classic profile of red snapper in lime juice with jalapeño and cilantro, the depth that soy sauce brought to cubes of tuna with cucumber and avocado, and the way habaneros seemed to raise the temperature of a chilled coconut-milk broth for lobster." [NYT]