Week in reviews

The Robs love Gabe Stulman's Chez Sardine: "In the izakaya tradition, you'll want to pair the booze with salty deep-fried mouth-waterers like crunchy rice balls and McNugget-size bites of chicken enlivened with kimchee purée and spicy aïoli. But where this kitchen really shines is in the seafood department, both raw and cooked, and in the unexpected offcuts you're likelier to stumble across in a bona fide Japanese joint." The critics give it four U.G. stars (out of five). [GS/NYM]