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Tyranny–It's What's for Dinner

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12341232012_emp_governor_1234-thumb-thumb.jpgCorby Kummer is the latest food writer to file on the tyranny of the tasting menu experience. On the new EMP menu, which he must have tried early in its evolution: "I found the cuisine itself a half-thought-through version of the kind of high-style, high-tech experimentation Achatz and Keller and others engage in, with immaculate technique but wan flavors and a use of technology that seemed gimmicky rather than creative." He also offers his two cents on the experience at Per Se. [Vanity Fair]

Per Se

10 Columbus Circle, Manhattan, NY 10023 (212) 823-9335 Visit Website

Eleven Madison Park

11 Madison Avenue, Manhattan, NY 10010 (212) 889-0905 Visit Website

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