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12341212%29122011_cuozo_sho112%20%281%29.jpegThe Post's Steve Cuozzo responds to Corby Kummer's Vanity Fair piece on the "tyranny" of tasting menus: "Sure, Kummer is right on about how chefs not in the league of Thomas Keller are doing tasting menus mainly to 'show off and control costs at the same time.' But you could argue that 20 courses in four hours gives you more bang for your buck than four courses in four hours — the norm at old-school spots where the pace is as stately as the tablecloths are white." [NYP, Previously]

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