Food personality Mark Bittman is "frustrated and unhappy" with the "painful" "circus" of $200 "four-star white-tablecloth" dinners, and he's burned out by the "general unpleasantness" of "über-hip" restaurants with "intentionally horrible seats." But fear not, for he has found solace in a "Japanese hole in the wall" in Midtown with "no celebrity chef, no publicity." And no, he won't tell you where it is. [NYT via Eater National]
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