As noted yesterday, Pete Wells loves the sushi at Ichimura at Brushstroke: "When we moved on to nigiri, and had our first taste of the rice — warm, fragrant and assertive — we understood that this was some of the most remarkable sashimi and sushi either of us had ever tasted. We also understood that the emptiness of the room wasn't just odd, it was plain wrong. And with that realization, away went my resolve to keep the secret sushi restaurant inside Brushstroke to myself." Wells gives the restaurant three stars. [NYT]
Ryan Sutton is frustrated by the service and the poor quality of the seafood at Brooklyn Crab: "Fried pollock ($15) is satisfyingly crispy; too bad the fish is oversalted to near-lox strength. Whole lobster, part of a $46 surf and turf, tastes of iodine and liver. Now that would be fine if this were one of those rare dry-aged lobsters. But since it isn't, I advise my companion to stop eating." Sutton gives the restaurant a half star rating. [Bloomberg]
Tejal Rao is charmed by 606 R & D in Prospect Heights: "The food here comforts. Often, it's what you'd consider making for an impromptu dinner party: half a golden rotisserie chicken ($20) served with a bowl of yogurt, some spicy watercress, and toast...A spiral of spicy pork sausage from Faicco's is a real winner, served with a hefty, miscellaneous bread salad ($16), soaked in a well-seasoned dressing and tomato juice, scattered with basil. It is lovely." [VV]
Michael Kaminer slams Joanne Trattoria, the new restaurant from Lady Gaga's dad: "I don't know the Germanottas' Aunt Josephine, but I imagine she's a doll with a warm, welcoming cucina and a big heart to match. So why did the poor dear lend her name to Joanne's meat lasagna ($26)? This is the Potemkin Village of lasagnas, an appealing surface that gives way to neutered meat, cheese and sauce. When your first impulse is to add salt to this Italian dish, you know you're in trouble." The critic gives the restaurant one star out of five. [NYDN]
Gael Greene generally likes what chef Todd Mitgang is working on at Crave Fishbar: "Fried oysters ride in on skateboards of pickled brussels sprouts leaves, tastily spiked with mustard paste, green apple and mango so that you pretty much forget it's oyster. Cherrystone clam and kale soup with farro scores a point for originality but also confirms for me that kale is overrated. Prawns with favas and charred shallot are tossed in the house's own firm lemon-tinged spaghetti. There was a braised chicken dish in Montauk I loved. Crave's vinegar fried chicken leg with pepper relish and Israeli couscous cooked with Adirondack cheddar cheese is close enough." [Manhattan]
The Robs award two Underground Gourmet stars each to Chió in the Columbia Waterfront District and Iris Cafe in Brooklyn Heights. On the latter: "Though there is a tendency toward overcooking (especially with the roast chicken, which comes with a nutty spelt pappardelle), a moist meatloaf special is crisp-edged, leavened with Finnish Ruis crumbs. For dessert, we recommend the lemon posset, or eggless custard, over the chocolate cake..." [NYM]
Jay Cheshes awards three stars out of five to Dale Talde's new dive bar project, Pork Slope: "The chef's St. Louis–style ribs, cooked low and slow in a smoker out back, have just enough bite and a nice, thick black-pepper crust. There's top-shelf shaved country ham—Edwards Surryano—simply served with a buttery biscuit. And the 'porky' patty melt is an excellent upgrade on the usual burger on toast, with a zingy house-made sausage patty, caramelized onions and strong mustard on marbled rye." [TONY]
THE ELSEWHERE: Shauna Lyon of Tables for Two is smitten with Mission Chinese Food, Gael Greene has a bum meal at Guy's American Kitchen and Bar, Ligaya Mishan checks out Boukies in the East Village, and Robert Sietsema loves the dips and charcuterie at Balkanika in Hell's Kitchen.
THE BLOGS: Gotham Gal likes the new menu at Eleven Madison Park, Serious Eats awards a B plus rating to Allswell in Williamsburg, the Immaculate Infatuation boys are very disappointed by Cafe Ronda on the Upper West Side, Eat Big Apple digs the shabu shabu at Hakata Tonton, Goodies First has a pleasant meal at Lulu and Po, NYC Foodie enjoys his dinner at Jack's Wife Freda, Chekmark Eats recommends brunch at Vinegar Hill House, and NY Journal thinks that Pitch & Fork on the Upper East Side shows promise.
· All Reviews on Eater [~ENY~]