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The Quotable Steve Cuozzo

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2012_9_LApicioQL.JPGSteve Cuozzo looks at some of this fall's openings, like L'Apicio, All'Onda, and Sirio, and suggests that "grown-up" regional Italian cuisine could be making a comeback: "The Italian trend ... is driven by owners and chefs with impressive track records. And they're bringing back the regional and interpretive styles that too briefly galvanized the dining millions just a few years ago." [NYP]