This week, Pete Wells files on Ichimura at Brushstroke, the six-month-old sushi counter in the southern tip of David Bouley's two-star Japanese restaurant. Wells is blown away by the sushi here from chef Eiji Ichimura. It's so good, that he couldn't keep it a secret:
When we moved on to nigiri, and had our first taste of the rice, warm, fragrant and assertive, we understood that this was some of the most remarkable sashimi and sushi either of us had ever tasted. We also understood that the emptiness of the room wasn't just odd, it was plain wrong. And with that realization, away went my resolve to keep the secret sushi restaurant inside Brushstroke to myself.
Although the restaurant was never as quiet on my return visits, it certainly wasn't going out of its way to advertise itself. It has no sign on the street, and no door of its own; you enter through Brushstroke. Nor did it have a name when I ate there. Late last week, after the restaurant's operators learned that I was writing a review, they decided it was time to christen the place, which opened quietly in April. Now it is called Ichimura at Brushstroke.
Wells also notes that Ichimura is serving some delectable aged fish dishes, and that if you like, you can get a few of the items from the Brushstroke kitchen (including dessert) at the sushi counter. Pete gives the sushi operation three sparklers.
Note: It might be a good idea to pick up the phone now and make a reservation before it becomes completely impossible; 212-513-7141.
· Hidden in a Nook, Mastery in Plain Sight [~ENY~]
· All Coverage of Brushstroke [~ENY~]