Ryan Sutton is not impressed with Michael White's Nicoletta: "Romaine salad, with briny anchovies and bright dressing, is lovely. Seafood salad is not. The clams, mussels and octopus taste more like marinated Styrofoam than aromatic shellfish. Stuffed squid had such a low-tide stink that I advised my companions to stop eating it." The critic awards Nicoletta one star out of four. [Bloomberg]
Jay Cheshes also reviews Nicoletta this week. The critic thinks the pies need some work: "Each pizza feeds two ordinary appetites, but even the best pies—heavy and grease-soaked—are like lead going down. Scanning the restaurant, you won’t find a table without leftovers to go." Cheshes gives Nicoletta two stars out of five, which is a very low rating by his standards. [TONY]
Stan Sagner gives three stars (out of five) to The Nomad: "Consistently delicious is the Tagliatelle With King Crab ($19), a luscious jumble of flavors - cracked pepper, sweet crab, Meyer lemon - all distinct, yet all in perfect balance. The silky yet toothy magenta Smoked Trout ($18) is what billionaires ought to put on their Sunday morning bagels. Strawberry gazpacho, an ingenious, refreshing seasonal treat, is a near-winner only to be marred by the aggressively salty duck prosciutto, which sadly overwhelmed the whole dish." [NYDN]
Gael Greene files on Jezebel and The Purple Fig. On the latter: "Five modest-size scallops with a small plop of celery root mousseline and a smidgen of celeriac remoulade (roumalade, the menu spells it) seem meager for $36.95. A side of peas with favas and morels comes in a demitasse cup, one small morel chopped into five easy pieces." [Insatiable Critic]
As noted yesterday, Pete Wells slams Michael White's Nicoletta this week, awarding it zero stars. He thinks this restaurant is a cautionary tale, of sorts: "Thanks to the rise of celebrity chefs, restaurant empires have as much need for a great product as they do for spittoons and a separate ladies’ entrance. To see this new model in action, you need only study Nicoletta, the pizzeria opened in the East Village in June by the chef Michael White and his business partner, Ahmass Fakahany." [NYT]
Voice critic Tejal Rao is disappointed by Nolita newcomer Ken & Cook: "On one night, the warm biscuits on a plate of generic fried chicken ($19) were actually inedible, so loaded with baking powder they could qualify as comfort food only under conditions of extreme duress. On another night, the biscuits were quite alright, but the thick wedge of fennel with a piece of whiffy monkfish ($26) was unpleasantly crunchy and undercooked, and the glaze on a titanic pork chop ($26) was as sweet as cafeteria syrup." [Village Voice]
THE ELSEWHERE: Robert Sietsema finds "the city's best falafel" at Hazar in Bay Ridge, Lizzie Widdicobme of Tables for Two likes most of the menu items at Biang! in Flushing, and Ligaya Mishan samples the Jamaican fare at Fisherman's Dawta in Boerum Hill.
ThE BLOGS: The Immaculate Infatuation boys find a mixed bag at Dudley's, Serious Eats checks out Taqueria La Paz in Sunset Park, Eat Big Apple has a mediocre meal at Pampano, The Pink Pig enjoys his dinner at Atera, and The Food Doc drops a recap of Paul Qui's dinner at City Grit.
· All Coverage of Week in Reviews [~ENY~]