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Pete Wells has major issues with the waiting list protocol at Rosemary's. But, the critic likes the food that's served there, once you sit down. A few menu highlights:
At nearly every table, some wise person has ordered the porchettina, sawed-off columns of brined and roasted pork loin standing upright like the ruins of a Roman temple. The main-course-size minestra di stagione didn't seem to tempt as many diners, but it should. On the night I tasted it, elbow macaroni shared the bowl with sugar snap peas, young turnips, asparagus as thin as a knitting needle, purple carrots and cherry tomatoes, each vegetable cooked to its ideal point, all of them in a vegetable broth that was gentle but persuasive. The menu bills it as "the ultimate minestrone," and the hyperbole is not far from the mark.Wells also digs the vibe of the restaurant, which "has the feel of a trellised patio in some corner of Italy that's heavily populated by Upper East Siders." The critic gives one star to Rosemary's. [NYT]
Ryan Sutton is impressed with the quality of the food at Torrisi spinoff Parm: "For nine bucks, you'll get one of the best turkey sandwiches, with a concentrated poultry punch and a sweet honey glaze. It has enough meat to feed 1.5 sumo wrestlers. Or for $17 there's the sausage and peppers platter, which includes a side of killer baked ziti. Those who finish it should get a plaque on the wall." Sutton gives the restaurant two and a half stars. [Bloomberg]
Jay Cheshes gives three stars (out of five) to Rosemary's: "Sophisticated diners will find plenty to thrill them, starting with octopus "salami," say—a chilled terrine with zingy giardiniera pickles—or house-cured pork capocollo (neck-meat ham) rubbed in potent dry chilies. Order a few of these shared snacks while you lean on a tall table near the bar, waiting for seats to open. There's warm, spongy, house-made focaccia to go along with them, encrusted in sea salt and filled with pungent stracchino cheese, if you like." [TONY]
Tejal Rao loves many of the dishes at Governor: "This new restaurant in DUMBO might not be an instant crowd-pleaser. But if we're lucky, chef Brad McDonald will go on surprising us. His cooking at Governor is thoughtful and fresh. It stands out among the city's rustic-chic simulacra of roasted marrow bones, kale salads, and pork belly whatsits. Delicious as those may be, here you're more likely to find big Island Creek oysters, poached in a bright emulsion of lobster roe, running over slices of house-made sourdough." [VV]
Michael Kaminer reports that Balthazar is still firing on all cylinders: "At $43, the Steak au Poivre is the kind of dish I'd usually mock. But when a Flintstones-sized cut of meat arrives this carefully cooked, and it's accompanied by a haystack-high pile of fries, it's hard to kvetch. Likewise, there's the textbook Salade Nicoise ($26). Too often, this dish resembles a sad repository of kitchen detritus. Balthazar's refined version presents tuna seared rare along with boiled egg, anchovy, peppers, potatoes and, smartly, arugula." The critic gives the restaurant four stars out of five. [NYDN]
THE ELSEWHERE: Robert Sietsema checks out Singaporean newcomer Masak in the East Village, Gael Greene fails to make a connection with Governor in Dumbo, Amelia Lester of Tables for Two is not wowed by Catch, and Ligaya Mishan digs Ni Japanese Delicacies on the Lower East Side.
THE BLOGS: Serious Eats gives a B to Murray's Cheese Bar, The Immaculate Infatuation dudes have a great time at Crave Fishbar in Midtown East, Eat Big Apple enjoys that slabs of beef and bacon at Empire Steakhouse, NYC Foodie is floored by the burger at Allswell, Chekmark Eats is won over by Emporio, and NY Journal thinks that Prandial could be a great neighborhood restaurant if the kitchen gets its act together.
· All Coverage of Reviews [~ENY~]
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