Ligaya Mishan visits one-year-old Ni Japanese Delicacies in the Essex Street Market for her Hungry City Review this week: "Now this is the Lower East Side: immigrants jostling, cadging and mooching from one another. For Mr. Numata, a native of Tokyo who has lived in New York for the last 22 years, local sourcing means wandering the neighborhood, sometimes simply reaching across the aisle." [NYT]
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