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Pete Wells Awards One Star to Reynards in Williamsburg

And the review is up. This week, Pete Wells files on Reynards, the smokin' hot restaurant in the Wythe Hotel from Andrew Tarlow and chef Sean Rembold. The critic loves what Rembold is doing with the wood-fired grill:

You can savor the smoke in the round oven-roasted clams, oysters and mussels served, with their juices, over thin toast slices. You can appreciate the way it turns grilled leaves of romaine lettuce with bread crumbs into a Caesar salad that has a beguiling edge of char. It burrows all the way through a roasted duck breast, making every scrap of meat worth whittling away from the bones.

Smoke even has its way with the dessert course. If you are one of those jaded creatures who has grown weary of tarte Tatin, then the grilled and caramelized peaches in the version here may revive you.

Wells also notes that a few dishes just plain don't work. The critics finds some improvements over the formula established at Tarlow's other restaurants, Diner and Marlow & Sons, but he writes: "Reynard feels more serious and self-conscious, as if trying to prove that Williamsburg has come of age." Wells gives the restaurant an enthusiastic one star.
· Fire Is Discovered in Brooklyn [NYT]
All Coverage of Reynards [~ENY~]


80 Wythe Ave., Brooklyn, NY