This week, Pete Wells files on Lebanese-Armenian newcomer Almayass. There are some strong dishes on the menu as well as a few weak ones, and Wells finds that the service can be spotty at times. Still, the restaurant has its charms:
I found only one main course that I truly enjoyed, broiled lamb chops that you pick up by their ribs so you can swab them in a secret Almayass sauce that seems to go into nearly everything, but tasted especially welcome here.Wells awards one star to the restaurant, noting: "Almayass can be frustrating and deeply idiosyncratic at times, but it always feels personal." [NYT]
The hunting was happier among the small dishes. The salads, like green olives dressed with a spicy tomato sauce and lemon juice, tasted radiant, a Levantine beach-side afternoon beamed down to Flatiron.
Jay Cheshes gives Danny Bowien's Mission Chinese Food four stars out of five: "Bowien’s cooking—bold and original and well worth the wait—features intensely personal spins on a host of Szechuan and Chinese-American classics, with Cantonese, Xi’an and Taiwanese tastes thrown in. To all of this he adds untold layers of flavor and depth." [TONY]
Stan Sagner awards three stars out of five to Back Forty West: "The Handmade Tagliatelle was a revelation. The bowl arrives unadorned and one’s heart sinks a touch at its homeliness. Oh, well. Then that very first bite, however, reveals alchemy: a flawless melding of impossibly fresh pasta, the slight bite of scapes and umami funk of olive gremolata, all beautifully tempered by a shower of nutty parmesan." [NYDN]
Tejal Rao is a big fan of the new menu at wd~50: "The new tasting is an epic, culinary love story set in New York City. And it is a must-eat, packed with edible tricks and technique-bolstered extras you might expect from the science-loving chef who brought us squirt-your-own noodles and deep-fried hollandaise. It is also delicious, fun as hell, and well worth the fatso price tag." [VV]
THE ELSEWHERE: Steve Cuozzo files on the city's best lobster dinners, Gael Greene is impressed by by the food coming out of the Strip House kitchen these days, Robert Sietsema encounters some hits and misses at Yunnan Kitchen on the Lower East Side, and Ligaya Mishan loves just about everything on the menu at Mile End Sandwich.
THE BLOGS: Serious Eats gives a B plus to Lot 2 in South Slope, the Immaculate Infatuation guys like Hillside as a place to hangout before Vinegar Hill House, Eat Big Apple checks out Haven at the Sanctuary hotel, the Pink Pig is a fan of the duck lunch at Momofuku Ssam Bar, Goodies First visits four Clinton Hill restaurants, Chekmark Eats digs the Filipino fare at Maharlika, NYC Foodie loves the southern grub at Brooklyn Star, and NY Journal is very impressed with the clever, inexpensive Asian fare at Mission Chinese Food.
· All Coverage of Week in Reviews [~ENY~]