Eddie Huang files a takedown of Marcus Samuelsson's new memoir and his restaurant, Red Rooster: "Marcus Samuelsson is a supremely important global voice in America, but that shouldn’t give him license to speak for Harlem. By catering to diners outside Harlem and talking down to the ones who live there—promising things like 'elevated' soul food—he treats the place like a museum exhibit." [NYO]
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