Ligaya Mishan drops a surprise Hungry City review of Yopparai: "At a certain point, a lightness of being takes over. You may find yourself slightly weepy over fragments of sea urchin, clinging to ribbons of raw squid ($9), or a scrambled egg slowly setting in a shallow clay pot, engulfing hunks of freshwater eel in a still-seething dashi broth..." [NYT]
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