The biographer of Craig Claiborne, the Times' first critic, comments on the restaurant scene in 1957: "He was very excited about discovering great restaurants in New York and he was appalled to find how lousy they were, especially at the high end, mostly French restaurants which were using not fresh fish or using frozen vegetables...it was a dishonest and snotty and all together distasteful business except for one single restaurant that he loved: Le Pavillon." [Eater National]
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