New York's critic Adam Platt — who loves reviewing restaurants exactly five weeks after they open — drops four stars on Matthew Lightner's Atera today. He's the first big critic to file on the ambitious Tribeca restaurant, and the review is a flat-out rave:
Like lots of artsy, cutting-edge cooks...Lightner isn’t necessarily concerned with making his food delicious in the standard, accessible ways. He wants to stimulate, to educate, and to entertain, and in terms of range, technique, and quirky inventiveness, he does as good a job of this as any chef in New York since the glory days of the great molecular gastronomist Wylie Dufresne.Platt also praises the desserts and the "cast of knowledgeable haute-cuisine veterans" who serve the food. It's perhaps worth noting that Mr. Platt basically does not give out five stars any more (EMP, Per Se, and Le Bern all have four stars), so this is a very big review indeed.
· Atera [NYM]
· All Coverage of Atera [~ENY~]