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The Early Word on Splashy Newcomer Brasserie Pushkin

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Krieger

Last month, Moscow mega-restaurateur Andrey Dellos opened the doors to his first New York project, Brasserie Pushkin, bringing Russian opulence Midtown. With dishes like borscht, chicken Kiev, and blintzes filled with ground veal, the cuisine is heavily rooted in Slavic tradition but sports some French influences. According to the early word from Yelpers, bloggers and commenters, the space is breathtaking, the plates can be pricey and service is sometimes a bit overbearing. Let's have a look at what people are saying:

The Good News: Many of the Yelp reviews are overtly positive, with only a few detractions for service and cost. Here's a funny one about checking your coat: "Went there for dinner this past weekend and had a pretty great evening. However, the formality of it all gets a little ridiculous and confusing -- 3-4 people waiting on you at a time is a little overbearing, not to mention pretentious and a bit annoying when all you want to do is eat, and the gold watch thing for your coat is laughable, especially for NYers. A simple number will do." [Yelp]

The "Shows Promise" News: Gael Greene enjoys the theatricality of the dining room and the service style, and encounters a few delicious dishes as well as a few missteps. Her takeaway: "I’m not exactly a pushover after 44 years as a restaurant critic. But tonight I feel I’ve dined with the oligarch’s daughters. The excess is amusing. I feel I might have been Russian in another life. (Grandma always said where she grew up was sometimes Polish and sometimes Russian.) I’ll be back for that crab salad. And perhaps the pelmeni in broth. Recently I’ve maxed out on macarons for all time, but I’ll try one of the little beauties by Café Pushkin’s world champion pastry hand, Emmanuel Ryon. With time, the kitchen might get humming. For now I’m enjoying the theater." [Insatiable Critic]

The Not So Good News: One Yelper (who loves exclamation points) wants to like the place, but just doesn't: "High lights are Bread and a side dish of buckwheat!!! They are amazing!!!! I DO feel though that Pushkin is Super overpriced for what it is! Go if you have to! But I will probably never go again unless some of my friends would be very stubborn and drag me there)))) Also just an advice for Chef: add zhul'en with chichen and mushrooms!!!! None of the restaurants I know serve it in Manhattan!! Sorry Pushkin! I really wish I could do better for you! Maybe if it was half price only..." [Yelp]

The Great News: An Eater reader writes in: "Stopped by Pushkin for dinner last night with a girlfriend. LOVE the design! Yes, it is very opulent but it feels comfortable and homey - the couches are super comfy and the brick walls make it very NY. Tuna tartare is to die for!" [Eater Tipline]

Some More Good(!) News: The two Menupages reviews are raves. Here's one: "I am typically not a big fan of Russian food or restaurants in general but this place is something else: great meats, especially the pozharski dish; service was good if not over-attending at times. very impressed overall." [Menupages]

The Bad News: One Yelper digs the room and not much else: "Both cocktails were truly bad and expensive. I suggest they hire experienced bartenders. The cod and pilmeny were good but not great. Price was high and portions were small. I dont understand why I had to pay $16 for about 20 berries in the fresh fruit plate.There is a large and friendly young staff, but not very experienced, which greatly detracts from the old world atmosphere which they would like to convey. " [Yelp]

The Pricey News: A Chowhound commenter writes: "$18 borscht! That's 18x what I pay every weekend for my favorite borscht at Streecha!" [Chowhound]

The Ryan Sutton News: The Bloomberg critic Tweets: "Here's my EARLY REVIEW of Brasserie Pushkin: Walked in, waited nine minutes to get bartender's attention, walked out. #RUSSIANRYAN" [Twitter]
· All Coverage of Brasserie Pushkin [~ENY~]
— Hannah Norwick

Brasserie Pushkin

41 W 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 212 465 2400

Brasserie Pushkin

41 W. 57th Street, New York, NY

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