In his latest rant, Steve Cuozzo complains about chefs, restaurants, and dishes that fail to live up to the food blog hype. On the squab dish at Atera: "I had my first meal at Atera last week. Squab was on the menu. Pickled wild onion — check. Aged 21 days — check. But no claw. The boneless squab looked as threatening as a sardine. The claw 'didn’t work out,' one of the chefs explained." [NYP]
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