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The Early Word on Gabe Stulman's Perla

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Krieger

Restaurateur Gabriel Stulman’s newest restaurant Perla, his fourth in his so-called Little Wisco empire, opened last week at 24 Minetta Lane in the old Belavitae space. Named for Stulman’s maternal Grandmother, Perla’s cuisine is a union of modern and traditional Italian fare with the same comfortable, neighborhood vibe that his other three restaurants are commended for. Joining the team at Perla is chef Michael Toscano, formerly of Manzo, and Jen Sgobbo, formerly of Gramercy Tavern, who will be in charge of wine. See what people are saying after Perla’s first week:

The Excellent News: The lone Yelp reviewer calls Perla “One of the best restaurants in NYC on a total value basis.” He continues with, “ I hope they keep it up. Amazing service, flawless food, fresh, clean great plating and meticulous details. It is like mailino but better." [Yelp]

The Pretty Excellent News: The first comment posted on Chowhound calls the menu, “rustic, hearty, and, based on my first visit, quite delicious.” The diner goes on to say, “I liked the garganelli with tripe (simmered into the sauce so the texture wasn't discernible), guanciale (crisped like lardons), and tomato. Also enjoyed the duck breast and duck leg confit with cabbage and pancetta. I thought it was even better than the duck at Babbo and Scarpetta which I also like a lot.” [Chowhound]

The Pricey News: A Follow-up Chowhound post claims, “food is alright, cocktails good to very good, but I just didn't feel like the value was there compared to Joseph Leonard (which is our personal favorite out of all of GS's restaurants). We had the foie gras tramezzini (our favorite, I think), whey-fed pork, buffalo mozzarella with almonds and brown better, Brussels sprouts with ricotta and green onions, and the bolognese pasta.” She later adds, “We weren't expecting huge portions or anything, but the check ended up $100+, pre-tip, with one cocktail each (2 people) and a few small plates, whereas I feel like we've had entire meals at Joseph Leonard for around there.” [Chowhound]

The Not So Great News: Here, a note from a reader in: "Place jammed. Excellent vibe. Food, though, not remotely ready for prime-time. Stulman's places always show a relatively heavy hand, but here, even the pastas came off as butter-laden weights. Seen this show before from Stulman, though, so sure it'll get there. Now, though, the move is a drink at the bar." [Eater Tipline]

The Foursquare Tips: The Foursquare tips are all positive, including "do not miss the gnocchi! order anything gabe suggests. luv it here almost as much as joseph leonard. :-)" And: "Grilled octopus antipasti is a great start to any meal here." And: "Mike Toscano is one of those most knowledgeable Chefs in the city. Let him geek out on you and ask him to explain one of his ingredient choices. Always interesting." [Foursquare]

The Mostly Good News: From another tipster: "Fun vibe, very spacious, good lighting (not as dark as Fedora), and great music. As always w/Gabe's other places--friendly staff, like genuinely friendly, like we are already besties by the end of the meal. Wall behind charcuterie area decorated w/photographs of owner's mom, manager's mom, chef's mom, etc. (very sweet, all photographs of mothers when they were younger) Great date place but also good place to bring Gramma & Gramps. One last note: cocktails outshine the food. The house made bitters are pretty damn creative." [Eater Tipline]

More Glowing News: Per an Eater commenter: "We ate there last night. The food was great as was the wine (not surprisingly w the woman from gramercy doing the wine list). We sampled a lot but my stand outs were the foie gras, the guinea hen and the bolognese. Dessert was good too. I'd definitely recommend. The staff was attentive and knowledgeable esp considering it's brand new.” [Eater comments]
—Hannah Leighton

Perla

24 Minetta Lane, New York, Ny 10012 212 933 1824 Visit Website

Perla

24 Minetta Lane New York, NY 10012

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