For this week's review, Pete Wells drops two stars on the recently revamped Acme, which now has Noma-vet Mads Refslund in the kitchen. He loves a lot of the ambitious, inventive food on the menu:
What looks like a bowl of sea foam subsides into a milky sauce of roast sunflower seeds bathing open clamshells embedded in sand-colored barley. It’s a small, intimate landscape that you eat. In fact, you might choose to eat it each time you come to Acme, noticing that it’s a little different each night, now with scallops, now with razor clams.Wells notices that the food is always changing, but he hopes it keeps going in the right direction. His final thought: "There were no trumpets playing when Mr. Refslund landed, but you can hear them now, and they’re going to get louder."
The room is cramped, the drinks are too sweet, and the decor leaves something to be desired, but Jay Cheshes loves Dale Talde's food at Talde in Park Slope: "Talde is cooking some of the most exciting food to hit this staid Brooklyn neighborhood in ages—innovative, well priced, fun and delicious." He awards it three stars. [TONY]
Ryan Sutton checks out the new gourmet eats at Madison Square Garden. The critic especially digs the food from Andrew Carmellini's Sausage Boss, which serves "links so good they would pass muster at The Dutch, his packed Soho restaurant." [Bloomberg]
Lauren Shockey finds a handful of exciting dishes at Danny Meyer's North End Grill, but also a few clunkers. Her takeaway is that the menu "plays it safe and occasionally bores." [Village Voice]
THE ELSEWHERE: Robert Sietsema heads to Jackson Heights to sample the Mexican food at Tacos Morelos, Tables for Two loves the modern Jewish fare at Kutsher's in Tribeca, and Gael Greene tastes some very good dishes at the week-old Vitae, but notes that "There’s nothing dramatically original about this food."
THE BLOGS: Serious Eats gives a B - to Isa in Williamsburg, the guys from Immaculate Infatuation are impressed by the food and the overall experience at North Fork Kitchen in Long Island, NY Journal gives a big thumbs up to Brabant in Midtown East, Feisty Foodie has a blowout meal at Sik Gaek in Sunnyside, Chekmark Eats enjoys the Italian comfort food at La Follia Osteria in Gramercy, and Eatery Row samples the mostly very good small plates at Ayza Wine & Chocolate in Midtown.
· All Coverage of Week in Reviews [~ENY~]