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Origin Stories

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2012_2_fordefiance.jpgSt. John Frizell, owner of Red Hook's Fort Defiance, recounts the many joys and terrors of opening your very own neighborhood joint: "In dark moments—and there were a lot of dark moments—I would calculate how many cappuccinos I needed to sell to pay off, say, the plumber. The number was always in the tens of thousands." [Gourmet Live]

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