Five and a half weeks ago, some owners of Noho veteran Indochine reopened nearby shuttered Southern/Cajun restaurant Acme with Mads Refslund, a co-founder of the hottest culinary restaurant destination in the world (Noma), in the kitchen. The fashionable crowd came because of the former personalities, the food obsessed hordes because of the latter. And today Adam Platt becomes the first critic to officially review the new Acme, awarding it two stars:
Some of Refslund’s seasonal creations feel stagy and slight (it’s the middle of winter, after all), but there’s a rigorous, just-plucked freshness to the best of his cooking that separates Acme from the fashionably rustic restaurants that keep popping up, relentlessly, around town...if Refslund and his chefs can hold up under the pressure, their cooking should only improve when the more bountiful spring and summer months roll around.Just stay away from the lobster, the duck in a jar, the Farmer's Eggs, and the turbot. And stay tuned for reviews from the rest of the pro critics in the weeks to come.
· Euell Gibbons Goes Downtown [NYM]
· All Coverage of Acme [~ENY~]