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123452012_la_apicio_1234.jpgPete Wells awards one star to Gabe Thompson and Joe Campanale's L'Apicio: "The polenta dishes, along with most of the pastas and appetizers, are handled so expertly that it almost doesn't matter that L'Apicio's grasp of the main courses is much less steady. After eating from the opening sections of the menu, you can be in such high spirits that you don't necessarily mind when the uncharismatic pork chop or dubious arctic char shows up." [NYT]

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