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Week in Reviews

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2012_royal_Seafood_restaurant_12.jpgPete Wells awards one star to Royal Seafood Restaurant in Chinatown: "Dinner brings the opportunity to share a soul-warming casserole of curried oxtail or a platter of irregular, springy e-fu noodles with fat mushrooms. And it's the right moment to try the house special baby lamb chops in a black-pepper sauce that has a caramel bitterness and an unexpected depth, an umami undercurrent that must come from leaves of seaweed that are frilly and green like an iguana's beard." [NYT]

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